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# What Was Waiting Above the Clouds
- URL: https://www.manythingsgroup.com/what-was-waiting-above-the-clouds/
- Published: 2026-09-19T20:12:14.000Z
- Updated: 2026-11-02T00:55:45.000Z
- Description: The plan got us there. Curiosity made us look again.
- Author: Jeff A. Ilseman
- Tags: curious-places

---

I was not convinced.

My wife, Sharon, and I arrived at the park late Thursday afternoon and made two stops for shorter waterfall hikes before driving to Paradise. By the time we reached Reflection Lake, the clouds had swallowed everything beyond the immediate shoreline. The kiosk showed the scene we were supposed to be seeing: a lake, a reflection, and an enormous snow-covered mountain rising behind it.

We stared at the picture. Then we looked in the same direction.

There was no mountain. There was only a solid wall of gray.

We drove back to our lodge in Ashford wondering what the next morning would bring. We had planned to hike from Paradise to Panorama Point, but we also discussed whether it was worth attempting if the mountain remained completely hidden.

---

### Driving Into the Clouds

We left the lodge at 5:25 the next morning. A nearby coffee shop was supposed to open at 5:30, but the lights were still off when we passed. We continued without coffee and began the forty-five-minute drive toward Paradise.

Most of the drive was in darkness beneath the tree canopy. At one point, I briefly turned off the headlights simply to see how dark it really was.

Completely dark, as it turned out.

We reached the Paradise parking lot around 6:15\. On a clear day, Mount Rainier dominates the view from there. That morning, I still could not see any evidence that a mountain existed. From a nearby car, we overheard someone trying to persuade the rest of their group to start hiking.

“I think it is going to clear,” the person said, with just enough uncertainty to sound as though they were also trying to convince themselves.

We started walking around 6:30.

We had decided to complete the Skyline Trail clockwise, then took the parallel Deadhorse Creek Trail for part of the climb. We were glad we did. Most of the time it was just the two of us, one deer, and the fog.

The temperature was in the low fifties and nearly perfect for climbing. For the first hour, though, we were hiking toward something we still could not see.

I was looking down at the trail, probably complaining about my inability to breathe after completing only about 400 feet of the planned 1,700 feet of elevation gain, when Sharon stopped me.

“There she is.”

---

### Above the Clouds

I looked up. Mount Rainier was slowly appearing through the fog.

Sharon had already begun referring to the mountain as “she,” and in that moment the choice felt appropriate. The mountain did not suddenly emerge all at once. She revealed herself gradually as the rising sun burned through the fog and began lighting the glaciers.

Our pace slowed considerably. Some of that was the elevation, but much of it was the number of times we stopped to take another picture.

The clouds rolled through the valleys beneath us while ridges and distant peaks rose above them. The view opened in every direction, with Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens in the distance. We were above the cloud layer. I had the distinct sense that people arriving in the parking lot below us still could not see the mountain at all.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/30/8f/308fb917-6b28-4156-b31d-6387bd544ff1/content/images/2026/11/1-w1hk2tp9dnsctp-kreyxya-jpeg.jpg)

***Above the cloud layer at Mount Rainier on September 11, 2026.**

Our trail eventually merged back into the busier Skyline route. We climbed another hundred feet and rested, then repeated the process. The final stretch before Panorama Point became steeper and more precarious, but we reached the viewpoint.

It was the destination we had planned around, and the morning had already exceeded anything I had expected.

Then we started down.

---

### Something Moving in the Rocks

The initial descent from Panorama Point was steep enough to feel like its own small adventure. About ten minutes later, I noticed movement among the rocks.

We had been watching for a mountain goat seen from the opposite side of the valley, but I initially assumed this was one of the unusually healthy chipmunks patrolling the trail for stolen snacks. When I looked closer, I realized it was a weasel.

I had never seen one in the wild. We watched it scramble among the rocks for five or six minutes, and I pointed it out to a group behind us. We moved on feeling as though we had added another unexpected highlight to the morning.

About thirty minutes later, that same group caught up with us.

“Is that a bear?” someone asked.

I turned around and saw a stocky animal moving across the rocks perhaps twenty or thirty yards away.

“That is a wolverine,” I said.

The answer came quickly. Then my expectations caught up with my eyes.

Wolverines were too rare. Surely one would not be this close to a busy trail. I also assumed we were at the wrong elevation.

“I think it is a badger,” I said, this time directing the answer toward the other hikers.

They took a few pictures, laughed about having thought it was a bear, and continued down the trail.

I kept looking.

The animal perched on a rock, climbed farther up the hillside, and moved back down. It looked like a wolverine. I had already said it was a wolverine. Yet the possibility felt so unlikely that I replaced what I saw with an easier explanation.

Sharon managed to capture a photograph on her phone and used its visual lookup feature.

“Hon, it is a wolverine.”

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/30/8f/308fb917-6b28-4156-b31d-6387bd544ff1/content/images/2026/11/1-ezixaeolndfb-dkh_kbxlq-jpeg.jpg)

***The wolverine we encountered while descending from Panorama Point.**

For a moment, I simply stood there. Then I began taking pictures again. Dozens of them.

I called down the trail to the group that had left.

“Hey, it is a wolverine. Do you know how rare this is?”

As we continued, I told approaching hikers to keep watching the rocks. One group replied that another hiker had just told them the same thing. The news was already traveling along the trail.

---

### Rare Enough to Doubt

We still had another hour of hiking. We saw marmots and, later, a black bear. On almost any other hike, the bear would have become the story I told first.

My mind, however, remained a thousand vertical feet behind us with the animal on the rocks.

I looked up the numbers as soon as I could. Population estimates vary, but the [National Park Service](https://www.nps.gov/mora/learn/news/wolverines-return-to-mount-rainier-national-park-after-more-than-100-years.htm?ref=manythingsgroup.com) describes wolverines as extremely rare in the contiguous United States. The agency estimates that only 300 to 1,000 live across the Lower 48 states.

Wolverines were believed to be locally extinct in Washington’s southern Cascades, and the first reproductive female and her two kits were confirmed inside Mount Rainier National Park in 2020-the first such confirmation there in more than a century.

I also learned that the higher-elevation subalpine terrain where we encountered it was exactly the kind of environment where a wolverine might appear. One of the assumptions that caused me to doubt my identification was wrong.

Earlier this week, I submitted the photograph and location to the [Cascades Wolverine Project](https://cascadeswolverineproject.org/get-involved/?ref=manythingsgroup.com). I have not received a response yet, but the sighting is now part of a larger effort to understand where these elusive animals are returning.

---

### What We Expect to See

I have written before about how an adventure often begins long before we leave. Planning and preparing can change how we spend our days months before we reach the trail.

This experience showed me the other side of that idea.

A plan can put us in position for something memorable. It got us out of the lodge before sunrise, carried us up a dark mountain road, and convinced us to begin walking into fog when we were not sure there would be a view. Without those choices, we would not have been standing above the clouds that morning.

But a plan cannot tell us everything worth noticing once we arrive.

At Reflection Lake, Mount Rainier was there, but the clouds prevented us from seeing her. On the trail the next morning, the wolverine was plainly visible, but my expectations made it difficult to believe what I was seeing.

The other hikers accepted my more ordinary explanation and continued walking. I almost did the same. What changed the moment was simply staying with the question a little longer.

That may be one of the most practical forms curiosity takes. Something does not fit. The first explanation is plausible but not completely satisfying, so we keep looking.

Most of the time, the second look will not reveal one of the rarest animals in North America. But it may reveal how quickly our expectations narrow what we are prepared to recognize.

We make plans around what we expect to find. Curiosity leaves enough room for reality to surprise us.

---

### Something to Consider

****What have you explained away because it seemed too unlikely-and what might happen if you looked a little longer?**

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